There are nearly as many kinds of harnesses, collars, and leashes as there are breeds of dogs. I suppose all of them have some kind of advantage, but only a few of them work really well with Dog Momma’s technique for training a dog to walk on a loose lead.
While we’re on the topic of collars and such, I also want to tell you why we let our dogs go around naked in most circumstances and why this is safe.
My overall feeling about walking equipment is do whatever works for you. If you’re getting your dog out regularly for enjoyable walks, you’re good! I have observed – of myself and many friends and family – that dog-walking equipment is a matter of personal preference. Hopefully this overview will help you figure out your own preference.
Harnesses
No-pull body harness
No-pull body harness
Earth Dog's Hemp Harness
The no-pull body harness with a front clasp is my paws-down favorite. I like to know that my dog isn’t being hurt when the leash gets tight. Of course you should train loose-lead walking—but you don’t have to hurt your dog in order to do so. You also don’t have to hurt her when she meets an irresistible temptation like a cat streaking by.
Some harnesses are more restrictive than others. We do fine with one that’s comfortable, as long as the ring for the leash is in front so that you can “steer” when you need to take control. Have you ever tried steering a dog from the back ring of a harness? Don’t bother. The front ring keeps you in control.
My personal favorite is Earth Dog’s Hemp Harness. The hemp quickly becomes super-soft, like a second skin, so that there’s very little risk that it will irritate the dog’s skin.
If you use my positive reinforcement technique for training your dog to walk on a leash, you don’t need more control than you get when your dog wears a soft, comfortable harness.
Gentle leader or head halter
Gentle leader / head halter
The head halter is also sometimes recommended as a gentle restraint. It works for some dog-human pairs quite well. My neighbor just started one with her rescue dog, and she’s loving it. There’s a large canine service organization nearby that uses these exclusively.
The potential drawbacks include not working well with short-nosed breeds (such as boxers), as the halter may not stay on. Also, getting the halter on and off the dog can be a bit of a fuss. The reality is, my boyfriend simply wouldn’t walk the dog as often if he had to put on a head halter each time.
Then there’s the aesthetic issue. For certain colored dogs, you hardly notice the strap around the nose, because there are color options (including black and tan) that might match your dog’s hair. For others, prepare yourself to respond to questions about why your dog is wearing a muzzle (he’s not!).
Collars
Basic ordinary collar
The concept behind the standard leather (nylon, hemp, etc.) collar is about as old as the relationship between people and dogs. I imagine its advantages are about the same as they’ve always been:
Basic ordinary collar
- It’s easy to put on and take off.
- It gives you something to grab quickly if you need to stop your dog right now.
- It provides a good place for identification tags and the like. (Well, OK, this probably wasn’t a big advantage in prehistoric times.)
Dogs have learned to walk on a loose lead while wearing an ordinary collar for a long, long time. A collar may be the best choice for you. I sometimes put collars on my dogs for off-lead adventures because of the advantages listed above. But while the dogs are on the leash, I prefer the harness because I don’t like the idea of even slightly strangling my precious ones when something exciting goes by.
Pronged collar
Pronged collar
A pronged collar wouldn’t be my first choice. But many nice dog owners feel comfortable walking their dogs on a pronged collar, and that’s just fine with me, as long as they’re really taught their dogs to keep a loose lead. If the dog doesn’t pull, it really doesn’t matter how prong-y the collar is.
I would, however, point out that the prongs do hurt. I’d rather not hurt my dog while training, and certainly not in those rare instances when even the best-trained dog might take off after a cat. The prongs can hurt you, too. A good friend of mine once sliced her finger while trying to get the leash off her dog’s pronged collar when her dog was excited to see mine.
Choke chain
Choke chain
The choke chain goes along with a specific method of training that involves “correction” rather than positive reinforcement. If you’re not proficient with the method, you will almost certainly strangle your dog with some regularity. Don’t do it unless you work with a professional trainer.
Martingale collar
Martingale collar
Martingale collars are related to choke chains, but they’re much more humane. The collar gets tighter with tension, but it is fitted so it cannot get smaller than the dog’s neck. The collar also is wide, unlike the narrow choke chain.
Martingale collars are designed for dogs whose heads are not much bigger around than their necks, like Greyhounds. They’re also good for dogs who have gotten good at wiggling out of their collars.
Leashes
Classic leash
I like your basic classic leash, which is 6 feet long. Your dog can move around, and you can control her easily when you need to. The material doesn’t matter as long as it doesn’t have a lot of give.
Longer leashes are excellent for teaching recall, but they’re tough to handle on regular walks. It’s no fun when you and your dog wind up on opposite sides of a tree.
Very short leashes can also be good in specific situations, such as when you are working with your dog off the leash. You can let the leash dangle without much risk of strangling the dog, and then you can step on or pick up the leash when you need a “quick grab” option.
British slip leash
British slip leash
I also use British-style slip leads in certain circumstances. They’re not great for training loose-lead walking, but they’re good for quick little things, particularly if your dog lives most of her life naked like ours do.
Using the slip leash, you can get your dog on a lead quickly even when she’s not wearing a collar or harness. It’s perfect for a quick back-and-forth to the car, or when the dog is running free but you need her on lead just for a few minutes while, for instance, a group of joggers or a strange dog goes by.
Slip leads are also good when you’re out in wet weather; you and your pup don’t have to deal with a wet, heavy wet collar. Remember, though, that the slip lead will feel entirely different to your dog than whatever harness or collar you used to train loose-lead walking. You’ll have to take it slow to remind her that “we don’t walk when you pull.”
Retractable leash
My loose-lead training method doesn’t work with a retractable leash. My method requires that the dog be able to tell the difference between a loose lead and a tight one, but a retractable leash is always tight.
Retractable leash
Also, using a retractable leash makes it tough to take charge in an emergency. If your dog is already 12 feet away from you and a cat runs by into the street, how will you protect your dog? You’ll burn your hand if you grab the cord, and gathering up the leash with the built-in spool will take too long.
The reason people like these leashes is you can provide your dog some freedom (typically 15 feet or so) and not have to fumble with a long rope. This is clever, and I started with this style leash but don’t own one any more.
To me, there are two walking scenarios:
- when we’re walking in town or in the neighborhood, a 6-foot leash is the best. Your dog can sniff a bit while walking, and you can easily handle the leash and control your dog.
- when we’re at a park or on some trails, we are off-leash. If we come upon something difficult, we “leash up” (on 6-foot leashes). While we’re training off-leash behavior (our current status with Rio), we do use a long rope.
